Hive Inspections Made Simple

By: Chari Elam

I can’t tell you how many seasoned beekeepers I’ve talked to who whisper quietly so no one else will hear: “I get into my hives, and it never looks like it’s supposed to. As I look, I get confused about what I’m seeing—and what to do with it!”

Does that sound like you? C’mon—admit it! We’ve all been there. But here’s the good news: you will get it! It just takes a bit of practice.

Let me simplify the hive inspection process by first explaining what inspections are—and when to do them.

There are two types of hive inspections:

1) Hive check (biweekly, except during winter—then monthly): You pull only a few frames to verify that the queen is laying and that the hive has the necessary resources (honey, nectar, pollen) for that time of year.

Note: If you discover an issue during a hive check, it should become a full hive inspection so the problem can be addressed.

2) Hive inspection (seasonal: February–spring buildup, May–before supering, August–during dearth stress, November–before overwintering): This involves pulling most of the frames and inspecting each thoroughly. It may include these steps:

• •         Requeening or making splits
  •         Performing a Varroa mite test (and treatment, if needed)
  •         Making space adjustments
  •         Manipulating frames (equalizing between boxes)
  •         Correcting any issues found

Whether you're doing a quick hive check or a full-on “hive dive,” look for these:

• •          Overall population
  •          Number of frames with brood
  •          Presence of eggs and larvae (indicates queen is present and laying)
  •          Honey and honey stores (to decide if feeding is necessary)
  •          Pollen presence (to decide if supplementation is needed)
  •          Well-fed brood (wet, milky liquid around larvae)
  •          Space—too little or too much?
  •          Brood diseases or Varroa mite evidence

Helpful tips:

• •          Keep 9 frames in a 10-frame box—it makes inspections easier.
  •          Remove one outer (honey) frame before starting your inspection.
  •          Take out only one frame at a time, beginning with the one closest to you.
  •          Quickly scan for the queen. If she’s there, inspect the frame carefully to avoid damaging her.
  •          As you work through the hive, look for brood, stores, pests, and diseases.
  •          If you find any issues (e.g., poor brood pattern, suspicious spots), take a quick photo and note which frame it was on. This becomes your homework!
  •          Work your most aggressive hive last.

Most Important Thing to Remember:

If you see something wrong, research the solution.
If you're unsure, contact us! Photos are a great help—after all, a picture is worth a thousand words. Same holds true in beekeeping!

Managing Space: The Most Overlooked Factor 

When to Adjust Space:

·       Growth season (Feb–July): If 80% of the hive is full, add a box or split. Not doing so may lead to swarming. 

      Note: Avoid adding boxes after the nectar flow (post-July) unless you're feeding heavily.

·       Dormant season (Aug–Jan): Too much space can invite pests like small hive beetles or wax moths. Weak colonies may also become targets for robbing.

Condition considerations:

• •         A queenless hive may not have enough bees to defend the space.
  •         Heavy Varroa infestations can reduce population.
  •         Lack of nutrition = weakened or starving bees.

Average Seasonal Hive Conditions

Early spring (Late Feb–April)

• •          Low honey stores from overwintering
  •          Some nectar or pollen (often supplemented)
  •          Population increasing—should be football-sized

Late spring to early summer (May–July)

• •          Honey stores re-established
  •          Plenty of nectar and pollen
  •          Population near peak—basketball-sized

Late summer to early fall (Aug–Sept)

• •          Stores may be low due to dearth—supplements needed
  •          Brood nest size reduced—about cantaloupe-sized

Late fall to early winter (Oct–Nov)

• •          Stores rebuilt—30–40 pounds (three to four frames) in upper deep
  •          Little pollen stored
  •          Brood is scarce; population is stable

Winter (Nov–mid-Jan)

• •          Bees cluster and live off stored honey
  •          No brood (depending on location)
  •          Population declines naturally as bees age out

I created a Hive Inspection Sheet years ago that many found helpful as they learned the ropes. Feel free to print and use as many copies as you’d like!

Final Note:

It’s so important to manage your bees with the seasons in mind. Take action when the indicators say it’s time, and stay on top of inspections. These are all good rules to follow!