Fall Nutrition: Feeding with Purpose for a Better Winter Hive

Late summer and early fall mark the beginning of winter prep for your bees. I know itโs hard to wrap your head around thatโbut like it or not, our bees are already shifting gears and getting ready for the colder months ahead. One of the key ways they prepare is hoarding honey and pollen, storing it like their lives depend on itโbecause they do.
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How Much Honey Is Enough?
The amount of honey a colony needs to overwinter depends on your region. Northern beekeepers should aim for 80โ100 pounds of stored honey, while in the South, 30โ60 pounds may be sufficient. A full honey super plus whatโs in the brood nest usually meets the mark for most.
If your colonies arenโt close to those numbers by the end of this month, feeding syrup needs to move to the top of your list. A fall nectar flowโoften from goldenrod and astersโis a huge help, but itโs not guaranteed. If theyโre not packing away nectar, itโs your job to step in.
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1:1 or 2:1 Syrup?
Stick with 1:1 syrup while thereโs still brood rearing, unless your hive is borderline starvingโthen switch to 2:1 for quick energy storage. As the weather starts to cool and you shift into storage mode, switch over to the thicker 2:1 syrup.
Pro Tip: Feed early. You want to be wrapping up your major feeding before daily highs consistently drop into the 50s. Why? Bees donโt readily take cold syrup.
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Donโt Forget the Protein
We talk a lot about carbs (sugar syrup), but your bees need protein to survive. That protein comes from pollenโand not just any pollen. Bees need a diverse range of pollen sources to meet their nutritional needs. Protein content can vary from 2% to 60% depending on the plant. If goldenrod is the sole pollen source, there's a strong chance your bees arenโt getting the full spectrum of nutrients they need.
Why does it matter? Poor-quality pollen or limited diversity dramatically reduces the nurse beesโ ability to care for brood. Theyโll start prioritizing, recycling protein by cannibalizing eggs and larvae, and hoarding what little they get to fuel winter bees.
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Feeding Pollen
Not all patties are created equal. Thankfully, weโve seen real improvements in pollen supplementsโeven those that include real pollen in the mix! For example, Global pollen patties contain 15% real pollen along with other beneficial ingredients. A step above that are our Stanโs Soft Sugar Bricks. Not only do they provide carbohydrates, but they also include real pollen, Complete, and a host of organic and natural ingredientsโhandmade into an all-season feeding brick. All that is to say that feeding with purpose, using proven supplements, will yield excellent results.
Remember, your goal now is not just to feed but to nourish. Just like people canโt live on donuts alone, your bees need more than sugar water to thrive.
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The Winter Bee
What you do now determines what kind of bees will carry your colony through winter. These arenโt your average summer workers. Winter bees are built to lastโliterally. The pollen they consume now stores in their bodies to help them maintain hive temperature, care for the queen, and even rear early spring brood.
Colonies should be heading into fall with 8โ9 frames of bees (โ 25,000 bees). Smaller colonies under 5โ6 frames (โ15,000 bees) are at risk and may need extra careโor may need to be combined with another hive. Colonies under 10,000 bees often donโt stand a chance alone. Make the call while thereโs still time.
And donโt overlook the queen. A weak or failing queen can doom an otherwise healthy hive. If queens are available, fall is an ideal time to requeen your older colonies. A young queen heading into winter often means a strong population will come out of it.
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Feed Smart. Feed Early. Feed Well.
So, hereโs the bottom line: Build your winter hive nowโnot later. Focus on feeding with purpose, prioritizing both energy and protein. Keep an eye on queen performance and colony strength. And remember, fall prep isnโt about reactingโit's about being proactive and setting your bees up for success long before winter hits.
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