Fall Nutrition: Feeding with Purpose for a Better Winter Hive
Late summer and early fall mark the beginning of winter prep for your bees. I know it’s hard to wrap your head around that—but like it or not, our bees are already shifting gears and getting ready for the colder months ahead. One of the key ways they prepare is hoarding honey and pollen, storing it like their lives depend on it—because they do.
How Much Honey Is Enough?
The amount of honey a colony needs to overwinter depends on your region. Northern beekeepers should aim for 80–100 pounds of stored honey, while in the South, 30–60 pounds may be sufficient. A full honey super plus what’s in the brood nest usually meets the mark for most.
If your colonies aren’t close to those numbers by the end of this month, feeding syrup needs to move to the top of your list. A fall nectar flow—often from goldenrod and asters—is a huge help, but it’s not guaranteed. If they’re not packing away nectar, it’s your job to step in.
1:1 or 2:1 Syrup?
Stick with 1:1 syrup while there’s still brood rearing, unless your hive is borderline starving—then switch to 2:1 for quick energy storage. As the weather starts to cool and you shift into storage mode, switch over to the thicker 2:1 syrup.
Pro Tip: Feed early. You want to be wrapping up your major feeding before daily highs consistently drop into the 50s. Why? Bees don’t readily take cold syrup.
Don’t Forget the Protein
We talk a lot about carbs (sugar syrup), but your bees need protein to survive. That protein comes from pollen—and not just any pollen. Bees need a diverse range of pollen sources to meet their nutritional needs. Protein content can vary from 2% to 60% depending on the plant. If goldenrod is the sole pollen source, there's a strong chance your bees aren’t getting the full spectrum of nutrients they need.
Why does it matter? Poor-quality pollen or limited diversity dramatically reduces the nurse bees’ ability to care for brood. They’ll start prioritizing, recycling protein by cannibalizing eggs and larvae, and hoarding what little they get to fuel winter bees.
Feeding Pollen
Not all patties are created equal. Thankfully, we’ve seen real improvements in pollen supplements—even those that include real pollen in the mix! For example, Global pollen patties contain 15% real pollen along with other beneficial ingredients. A step above that are our Stan’s Soft Sugar Bricks. Not only do they provide carbohydrates, but they also include real pollen, Complete, and a host of organic and natural ingredients—handmade into an all-season feeding brick. All that is to say that feeding with purpose, using proven supplements, will yield excellent results.
Remember, your goal now is not just to feed but to nourish. Just like people can’t live on donuts alone, your bees need more than sugar water to thrive.
The Winter Bee
What you do now determines what kind of bees will carry your colony through winter. These aren’t your average summer workers. Winter bees are built to last—literally. The pollen they consume now stores in their bodies to help them maintain hive temperature, care for the queen, and even rear early spring brood.
Colonies should be heading into fall with 8–9 frames of bees (≈ 25,000 bees). Smaller colonies under 5–6 frames (≈15,000 bees) are at risk and may need extra care—or may need to be combined with another hive. Colonies under 10,000 bees often don’t stand a chance alone. Make the call while there’s still time.
And don’t overlook the queen. A weak or failing queen can doom an otherwise healthy hive. If queens are available, fall is an ideal time to requeen your older colonies. A young queen heading into winter often means a strong population will come out of it.
Feed Smart. Feed Early. Feed Well.
So, here’s the bottom line: Build your winter hive now—not later. Focus on feeding with purpose, prioritizing both energy and protein. Keep an eye on queen performance and colony strength. And remember, fall prep isn’t about reacting—it's about being proactive and setting your bees up for success long before winter hits.