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Wax Moths: The Cleanup Crew You Don’t Want

Minor wax moth damage

Identifying Wax Moths

Much like small hive beetles (SHB), adult wax moths don’t directly harm a hive—the real damage comes from their larvae. An adult wax moth is about three-quarters inch long with silvery-gray wings. Newly hatched larvae are pale white but darken to gray as they consume wax and pollen. They also have a brownish-yellow head and can grow from three-quarters inch to nearly two inches long. These larvae can be extremely destructive to comb.

A severe infestation can reduce a dead or dying hive—or even stored supers—to a webbed mess in just a few days.

In the early stages, you may notice silk tunnels running through the comb. Freezing the affected frames will quickly kill the larvae, allowing the bees to clean and reuse the comb.

In their final stage, larvae spin tough silken cocoons in corners and crevices or burrow into the wood of the hive. These can hatch into adult moths in as little as 28 days or as much as six months, depending on temperature and food supply. Scraping them out and freezing the equipment is the most effective way to stop the cycle.

    Major wax moth damage               wax moth damage on wood box

Do Wax Moths Kill Hives?

While wax moths can destroy comb, they don’t kill hives. They’re more like a cleanup crew, moving in after something else has weakened the colony. They’re often blamed for hive deaths simply because they’re visible—but in most cases, the real culprit was another issue, usually Varroa mites. Once the colony is too weak to defend itself, wax moths and other pests take over.

The best defense is keeping your colony strong and healthy.

 

Defending Live Hives Against Wax Moths

There are no safe and effective treatments for wax moths in a live hive. The two best defenses are:

1.      A strong colony - Well fed and healthy. 

2.      Properly sized hive equipment for the number of bees in a box (not too much unused, unprotected space)

·        If your hive occupies only a few frames (small and weak), it's at risk. Focus on Varroa control, proper feeding, and healthy queens to build strength.

·        Bees should occupy at least 25% of every box in the hive. If they don’t, remove the extra box—except in late fall or winter. Once temperatures stay below freezing at night, wax moths aren’t a concern. If your top box is full of honey but lightly populated, it’s okay to leave it for winter reserves.

 

Cleaning Frames Infested with Wax Moths

Whether you can salvage wax moth–infested frames depends on the damage:

  • Light damage (a few silk tunnels): Kill larvae (freezing is the easiest way) and place frames in a strong hive. Bees will clean and repair them.
  • Moderate damage (up to 50%): Scrape the damaged sections. If it’s plastic foundation, a strong hive will redraw comb. Brushing on melted beeswax or rubbing/scratching firm wax across the foundation can help.
  • Severe damage (over 50%): It’s often best to scrape and recoat the foundation with wax or remove and replace it entirely.

 

If you’re using beeswax foundation instead of plastic, the entire sheet must be replaced.

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