Dealing With Weak Hives To Survive Winter

At some point, you’ll likely have to deal with a weak hive. Unfortunately, heading into fall and winter is the worst time for this to happen!

A hive may be weak for several reasons—topping the list is an overpopulation of Varroa mites. We may seem like we harp on Varroa, but the truth is they are the most common cause of colony problems.

Many studies have looked at whether it’s worth the time and energy to nurse a hive back to health. The general conclusion is logic-based: time + expense = result. If the outcome isn’t likely to be favorable, investing in a failing hive may not make sense.

Hives Typically Not Worth Saving

• Fewer than 2 frames of bees (not enough workers to even support requeening)
• Widespread DWV (deformed wing virus) or other diseases
• Queenless long enough to have laying workers established
• Unstoppable robbing (persistent despite intervention)
• Failure to keep the hive clean (indicating a failing workforce and low population)
• No food stores and no foraging activity

Studies show that hives with these issues rarely respond well to rescue efforts. In most cases, it’s better to focus on healthier colonies and cut your losses on those too far gone.

Hives That May Be Worth Saving

• More than 3 frames of bees still performing normal duties, even if not thriving
• Recently queenless but with good population and active foraging
• Minimal DWV, elevated mite load, but no other signs of disease

Steps for Repairing a Weak Hive

1.      Test for Varroa and treat if needed—skipping this step is a waste of time.

2.      Boost gut health with Super DFM.

3.      Requeen if possible.

4.      Add nurse bees from a healthy hive.

5.      Combine with a hive of equal or greater strength (if appropriate).

6.      Feed strategically with heavy syrup (2:1 or premade) plus small amounts of pollen patties through November.

7.      Retest for Varroa before November to ensure low mite loads going into winter.

Combining Colonies

Combining is a valid recovery option in certain situations. Some hives just won’t grow, even when you’ve done everything right. Combine only those colonies that have low mite loads and no signs of disease. Combining a high-mite hive with another will only spread problems and create bigger issues.

Steps for Combining

1.      Identify both the weak and receiving hives.

2.      Confirm low mite counts in both.

3.      Smoke the entrances of both hives heavily.

4.      Remove the outer cover from the receiving hive.

5.      Feed internally and place a pollen patty on the top bars.

6.      Lay a sheet of newspaper directly over the top bars (over the pollen patty).

7.      Place the weak hive on top of the stronger hive and replace the outer cover.

8.      Done!

Within a day or two, the two boxes of bees will have eaten through the paper, merged, and begun working together as a larger, more productive hive.