What's the difference, and can I do one without the other?

Basically, you have two treatment options: 1) synthetic chemicals and 2) natural compounds. The chart below indicates four methods, but with further study you’ll find that the mechanical and cultural methods are to be used in conjunction with the other two. Having said that, not all beekeepers are willing to use hard or soft chemicals in controlling Varroa mites and can find some success in the more passive approaches by using only mechanical and cultural methods. Whatever you choose, get ready to stay on top of it in order to be successful. See "Varroa IPM (Integrated Pest Management)."

"I believe, along with most of the industry, that using 'mechanical and cultural methods' in harmony with treatments is the best way to go."

The effectiveness of synthetic chemicals and natural compounds varies very little. Most synthetic chemical and natural compound Varroa treatments tout an efficacy rate of over 95%, with some natural compounds as high as 99%. The difference is mainly in the overall colony losses per year. There is documented evidence that the overall losses are significantly lower with the more aggressive treatments such as Apivar (upward of 47% improvement over 31% with natural compounds).

Evidence also shows that the likelihood of queen and colony degradation is lower with these chemicals as opposed to their natural compound counterparts— not to shortchange the natural compound benefits, as they do have a higher efficacy rate of 95-99% when controlling Varroa mites and are considered organic by legal standards for the industry.

Most of these products use a fumigant-distribution system; therefore, the bees aren’t very fond of them. Bearding and absconding have been documented as real issues while using these products, but not so much as to outweigh the benefits to some.

Queen and brood damage have also been noted, but again, they have not risen to the level of the benefits outweighing the risks. "It’s very, very important that you read each and every detail about the product(s) you choose to use, especially regarding the population stage (increase, peak, decrease, dormant) and current temperatures." If a product specifies that it can be used in a high-population period but has a temperature rating of 80 degrees, using it during higher temperatures will likely run your bees out of the hive and risk their leaving altogether! Please pay close attention to these particulars.

Kills up to 99% of mites in one application Continuously released in the colony over a six-week period, ensuring healthy and productive hives Proven safe and effective for more than 15 years Convenient and easy to use

Your goal is to maintain a Varroa mite load of less than 2%. This number is achieved by testing. Arguably one of the most intimidating aspects of beekeeping is testing for mites. Most treat without testing. When we were new, our lack of confidence in testing resulted in just treating, as opposed to testing and treating if needed. Don’t be this person! You have options to help accommodate your comfort level.

Listed in order of accuracy of testing:

1. Alcohol wash (results threshold: < 2 mites per 100 bees)
2. Powdered sugar shake (results threshold: < 6 mites per 300 bees)
3. Sticky board (results threshold: < 9 mites over a 24-hour period)

Check out this video showing how to do the alcohol wash. The sugar shake method is done the same way, only with powdered sugar instead of alcohol.

Two of these methods require that you take the center two or three frames of bees (less the queen) and shake the bees off into a Easy Check container to test. In my opinion, this is the trepidation point. Once you get past this, you are home free. Second-year and beyond beekeepers should have the confidence to do either an alcohol wash or a sugar shake. These are the most accurate and recommended methods.

New beekeepers: Using the sticky board is better than not testing at all, but don’t let it be your final testing method. Only use it until you get more comfortable with your bees.

Although least accurate of the testing methods, using a sticky board is better than treating without testing. Watch how easy it is.

Three Seasonal Phases

• Population Increase (PI)
• Population Peak (PP)
• Population Decrease (PD)
• Dormant (D)

Knowing the phase your colony is currently in is key to knowing how to treat for Varroa mites.

All of the treatment methods consider the colony phase (brood cycles) and temperature in their treatment plans. For example, where some treatments work well in PI, others do not and can actually be harmful to your bees.

Most of the products listed on the following printable charts have been used with extreme effectiveness and very good results. "I believe, along with most of the industry, that using 'mechanical and cultural methods' in harmony with treatments is the best way to go."

QUEEN ISOLATION CAGE

Great for creating a brood break as a mechanical method in controlling Varroa mites. Simply locate your queen and place her (frame and all) into the cage for approximately two weeks to slow the reproduction cycle of Varroa mites.

Treatment-free beekeeping is another form of mite management that has grown in popularity but does not mean "do nothing and the bees will still survive."

I have some very successful beekeeper friends who have achieved acceptable mite thresholds by using Varroa sensitive hygiene (VSH) queens, brood interruption, and other noninvasive means. But make no mistake—these beekeepers work extremely hard to control mites in their hives. Requeening more frequently can become expensive if you aren’t in the segment of this industry that generates queens. Having said that, I fully support those who can achieve low mite counts without chemicals.

As for me, I personally strive to keep the healthiest hives possible and in doing so take the stance that we are open to treating our hives on a case-by-case basis. It’s important to me to keep our bees as mite-free as possible and to do so by making an educated decision based on the most current information available.